Pipers, Picks, Pecks, and Other Pepper Possibilities
October/November 1999
By Madalene Hill and Gwen Barclay
ROMANTIC TALES OF THE PIPERS AND THEIR SPICY
TASTE-ALIKES HAVE FLOATED DOWN THROUGH THE AGES. TODAY’S COOK HAS
MANY CHOICES IN PUNGENT, AROMATIC SEASONINGS.
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During the Middle Ages, black pepper (Piper nigrum) was so
valuable, it was placed in the hands of the pharmacists, who doled
out the peppercorns to prescription holders who had the gold to pay
for them. Ransoms and conquering soldiers were paid in peppercorns.
The amount of black pepper people owned was a measure of their
wealth and “liquidity,” and the search for this highly prized spice
was one of the motivations for Christopher Columbus to set sail.
And as so often happens when there’s not enough of the real thing
to go around, for several hundred years, the mania for black pepper
led to the use of less costly spices with similar flavor—pepper
alternatives that remain in use to this day.
Grains of paradise
With peppercorns priced out of reach for most, grains of
paradise (Aframomum melegueta) became popular. A member of the
ginger family (Zingiberaceae) and closely related to cardamom
(Elettaria cardamomum), grains of paradise are cultivated in
Ghana, Guinea, the Ivory Coast, and Sierra Leone. The plants grow
about 6 feet tall with the typical showy blossoms of the gingers.
Their grains, or berries, often called melegueta pepper, taste hot
and pungent, without the camphor taste found in some cardamoms.
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